Fishermen and fireworks

25/5/22

Today I headed back to Tbilisi after a good breakfast at the guest house with fried egg on some sort of vermicelli noodles with homemade tomato sauce – strange but tasty. Frustratingly, we went the long way round to Tbilisi on the big road, which meant going nearly all the way back to Sighnaghi first, instead of going directly through the mountains.

When I returned to Tbilisi, I left my stuff in my hostel before heading back out. There was lots of preparation in the street – Georgia would celebrate Independence day the following day. I decided to extend my stay so I could celebrate Independence day too. Then I headed to Mtskheta, specifically Jvari Monastery at the top of the hill by Bolt taxi, so I could walk down again. The view of Mtskheta from the top was very nice with the meandering river cutting the mountains from the old city. There was also a huge church which could be seen from far and wide and a modern building which looked like teletubby hill which turned out to be the local police station!

IThe walk down was pretty, down through a valley and I met only one Georgian couple along the way. It was a little shorter than I would’ve liked to the town so I decoded to extend the route and cross the dual carriageway and then the river at the further point, not the closer one. This sounded like a good plan but after awhile, it started to feel like one of mine and Clare’s Birmingham walks in which we use a route that noone has used in years and there’s evidence of fly-tipping and industrial bits and pieces! I continued past various paraphernalia to a farm before heading down to the river crossing. There were many fishermen sat on either side of the fishing but sadly the bridge was no more, having been washed away by the river at some point. After trying to find a different way across, I turned back defeated and had to add another 5km on my walk to go back to the original route. I stopped at a converted old bus to get a takeaway coffee before making it all the way around, under the road and finally to a bridge that was still functional. On the bridge I met a friendly fisherman and we started talking both in our own languages to each other. He was surprised that I had walked all the way from the monastery and then the far away bridge. I asked to make his photo and he showed me his catch of the day. We shook hands and went our separate ways.

The walk riverside was beautiful, with the current heading to the town, the green gentle hills and the stone monastery atop. I saw a dead turtle/terrapin which I’m never sure how to feel about – shame it didn’t make it but good to know they’re about?! Maybe?! I walked past a farmer and his herd, past the teletubby police station and into an old walled town. It was very pretty. The cathedral had many graduating students milling around and taking photos. I wandered round before catching the marshutka back to Tbilisi.

I had a quick shower and change before heading out to meet my previous couchsurfing host Gabby and her friends for a night of drinks and jazz. We met and walked to 1984, a jazz bar and ordered cocktails (a margarita for me of course) and a cheeseboard. We were nearly a full compliment of English speaker – an Irish, two Welsh – ayayyy, the other girl was from Pembrokeshire, a Kiwi and an American. The band was real good with the bassist the key member of the band. Afterwards, Gabby and I got brushetta before walking home.

Almost as soon as I turned off the main road, a guy started talking to me, mainly via his friend since his English was not so good. He seemed friendly enough, but a little drunk so I chatted to him. When we reached my hostel I said bye and went inside. Maybe five minutes later, the hostel bell rang and he appeared in the hostel reception. Someone had buzzed him in at 1am in the morning without checking!! Madness! I left the hostel staff to get rid of him since they had let him in in the first place and I went to sleep!

26/5/22

Happy Independence day to Georgia!! I got a khachapuri from the local bakery for breakfast before heading to my fave coffee shop via my old hostel, Funicular. They had no space for me to stay but I still knew people there so figured I’d pop by. When I arrived, Mus was cooking shashuka for the first time – the egg was all scrambled on top and looked a terrible mess! I sent a photo to my Israeli friend Gil – of course he was not impressed! Mus invited me to eat with him so we ate shashuka with fresh Georgian bread and tea. (I never made it to my favourite coffee shop). Then French Raphael and a new Aussie guy, Chris appeared and we chatted awhile. We watched jets stream red and white steam in the sky and then Raphael went to work and we (Mus, Chris and I) headed out to see the independence day festivities.

We walked down the main street Rustaveli to Freedom Square which was filled with army vehicles with kids hanging off them! Then we got bevs and went to sit in a park. After awhile, Mus headed back to the hostel and Chris and I headed to a different spot to drink more bevs and eat snacks with a nice view over Tbilisi. Afterwards we listened to an orchestra and choir in the main street on a huge stage before going for food and wine in Pasanauri. As we were finishing, we heard a series of loud bangs. We ran outside (after paying) to watch the biiiiig and fabulous fireworks!! What a way to end the day!